Growing Bonsai by Air Layering
In Japanese: Toriki means a slightly more complex strategy to propagate Bonsai by air layering. Air layer is one of several techniques for increasing your bonsai stock.
The main behind air layering is to force a tree or branch to create new roots at a certain point by interrupting the natural flow of nutrients from the main root system. There are several reason that makes air-layering a good choice: reducing trunk, growing a much better Nebari (root flare), or choosing a branch to be grown as another tree.
Air-layering should be done only during the spring, when the tree began growing following its winter dormancy period.
How to create an air layer
There are two main ways to air-layer a tree; the tourniquet method and the ring method.
The tourniquet method involves tightly wrapping the trunk/branch with copper wire to block the stream of nutrients partially. When the trunk/branch grows thicker the flow of nutrition will decrease, forcing the tree to develop new roots above the wired area. This technique is used for rather slow growing trees that require additional time to grow fresh roots; these won’t survive the even more aggressive ring technique.
The ring method involves cutting away a ring of bark at the idea on the trunk or branch where you desire brand-new roots to grow. The portion above the ring will need to grow roots to be able to survive immediately. The ring should be wide enough to prevent the tree from bridging the gap.
Wrap a bit of copper wire completely around the trunk/branch right at the point where you prefer new roots to develop. The wire should cut about into the bark halfway; the thicker the trunk/branch the thicker the cable ought to be.
Apply some rooting hormone around the ‘wound’ and now wrap a good quantity of sphagnum moss around the wound, covering it with some plastic.
Make use of a sharp knife to cut two parallel slits around the circumference of the branch (maintain enough room between both slits, at least one time the size of the branch).
Now remove the band of bark between both of these cuts best till the ‘shiny’ hardwood is seen and the cambium is removed.
Make certain the ring can be wide enough that the tree does not have the ability to span the wound; also be sure you have removed the bark around the entire tree exposing hard wood; the tree will only grow roots if it has no other choice.
Apply some rooting hormone around the ‘wound’ and today wrap an excessive amount of wet sphagnum moss around the wound, covering it completely with plastic wrap and sealing the wound.
The moss should be kept moist at all times. After about 90 days roots should begin to grow in the moss. When the plastic is filled up with new roots slice the plant just below the roots. Apply cut paste to the wound on the original tree, Do not make an effort to take away the moss; plant the whole bundle, minus the plastic in well drained Bonsai Soil. Place the new plant in a shielded area out of bright sunlight. Let the new tree grow until the following spring.
|This bender is very helpful as you become more advanced in bonsai. This tool is very adjustable and will easily handle tree trunks up to an inch. They are very low priced and can be left in place. I did a short demo video on this bender. Watch the Bonsai Branch Bender demo video.|
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